Alloy Silver Metallic 2020 Mitsubishi Outlander SE FWD CVT I4 ABS brakes, Alloy wheels, Electronic Stability Control, Front dual zone A/C, Heated door mirrors, Heated Front Bucket Seats, Heated front seats, Illuminated entry, Low tire pressure warning, Remote keyless entry, Traction control.
The Can Do Dealer! Odometer is 28925 miles below market average! 25/30 City/Highway MPG
Used 2020 MitsubishiOutlander SE
- Odometer
- 63,130 miles
- Fuel Economy
- 25/30 MPG City/Hwy
- Transmission
- Automatic
- Engine
- 2.4 Liter SOHC
- VIN
- JA4AD3A39LZ036637
- Stock Number
- G5851
Included Packages & Accessories
Dealer Notes
KBB.com Consumer Reviews
- 1.0
This vehicle sucks
By Veronica on Thursday, June 06, 2024
Continues to live in the shop for repairs. Not reliable enough, bad experience dealing with it. Terrible quality, gas mileage sucks. It's not a good choice suv. No quality, no performance, nothing but a money pitt. - 4.0
Big Space, Great Value, So Reliable
By Skipper on Wednesday, August 28, 2019
We bought our Outlander from Avis Car Sales. We've had it for two years. Besides regular oil changes, we have not spent one penny on any thing! We love Toyotas but this was so much cheaper than the Highlander or even the Rav4 and is just as reliable. We've carried seven people in it numerous times. We've also carried 8 suitcases, four carry-on bags, and lots of baby equipment. The engine is a very clever 4 cylinder mated to a CVT. It is smooth and the mileage is great though acceleration is limited. Brakes have been very reliable. It's small on the outside, big on the inside. Will probably go right back to Avis for out next car -- another Outlander! - 4.0
Reliable Budget Vehicle
By YellowRose on Friday, July 05, 2024
I purchased a 2017 Outlander SEL with 3K miles on it in 2017. Now it's 2024, 78,000 miles. No issues whatsoever. I've changed the oil regularly, had the transmission serviced based on the recommended schedule, replaced the tires at around 45K and replaced the brakes at around 60K. It still has the original battery! (The battery is getting near its end. If I leave the doors open too long, sit listening to the radio, etc. it does die quickly. But I've NEVER had a battery last 7 years before!) I chose the Outlander, first and foremost, because I had owned previously owned 2 Mitsubishi's (a 1988 Mighty Max bought new and then a 1997 Eclipse purchased used for a teenage son) and knew first hand they were reliable vehicles. The second deciding factor was price. It was lower priced than any comparably equipped vehicle. Final factor was warranty. 5yr/60K mile standard new car warranty + to the original owner only a 10 year/100K mile engine and transmission warranty (the extended engine/transmission warranty also applies to Certified Pre-Owned purchases.) Mitsubishi is known as a budget brand, and yes you will see some evidence of that in the interior finishes. But they are also one of the top sellers in many lesser developed countries where reliability and price are more important to the buyer than bells and whistles. They make a solid drive train. (Yes, MItsubishi vehicles do depreciate quickly. I keep vehicles 10+ years on average so that wasn't a big concern to me--I saved about $5k up front over a GMC Terrain which was my second choice, and by the time I sell it I may get $1k less than if I were selling the Terrain with similar age and mileage. If you are buying used, that depreciation is a saving to you. But if you plan to only keep the vehicle a couple of years, I would never recommend buying a new Mitsubishi.) Do not believe all the 1 star ratinga you see here. Notice the dates -- most all reviews prior to June 2024 were great. And there's a gap of several months between many reviews. Then, over a span of about 3 days, there are about 20 1 star reviews -- obviously someone unhappy about a transmission issue posting repeatedly. These have a CVT and CVTs do require more regular maintenance than "normal" transmissions. The manual says it should be serviced every 60K miles under normal driving, 30K under extreme conditions. My dealership recommends just doing it every 30K regardless--costs about $160 at the dealership. Or if you are mechanically inclined, do it yourself.